Uji is but 8 stops and 24 min away from Kyoto in the JR Nara Line (also convenient for getting you to Tofuku-ji Temple and Fushimi Inari- 1st, and 2nd stop on the way). It is where many of the Matcha teas you can purchase in Kyoto come from, and it hosts many stores selling tea (one as old as 400 years!), and tea goods, confectionery and souvenirs.
Uji and its bridge (several times reconstructed in the same spot, throughout the centuries), appear in the novel The Tale of Genji by Shikibu Murasaki. It is one of the most important works of Japanese literature, and said to be the earliest novel recorded. It is a tour de force, a book of many chapters, written in the Heian period, describing the lives of many members of the aristocracy. The central hero, Genji, is as beautiful as Apollo, and just as lucky in his pursuit of partners. Yet, the book is not just about romantic entanglements and wooing, nor a book on manners, mannerisms, and court life alone; it is also a great vehicle for poetry, and a tale of morality (though one may not think so at first glance).
Genji and tea aside, Uji is also home to some unique temples and shrines. My first stop, a short walk away from the station, was the Byodoin Temple with its Phoenix Hall, a fine example of Jodo (Buddhist Pure Land) Architecture. In Elven terms this means the journey to the West.*
The Phoenix Hall hosts the wooden statue of Amida Buddha (by Jocho, priest and sculptor) with the Hiten (closest to Buddha), and several Bodhisattvas on the surrounding walls. Their role is to ease the passing of those who are about to die. The Phoenix Hall is the only part of the temple that has survived since its conception in the Heian period. A female member of staff spoke about its history in a 15min guided tour of the room. These tours take place at set times, and the number of people joining is controlled, so as to not overcrowd the space. It makes for an intimate experience.
The view of the garden is spectacular, and I’m quite pleased with the snapshots I took.
The ticket also allows access to the Hoshokan Museum (underground), currently hosting a special exhibition that draws parallels between the work of Shikibu Murasaki and the Pure Land. In the Heian period, Buddhism played an important role in the lives of the people and it is said that stories in The Tale of Genji refer to Buddhist teachings, and the notion of past lives.
If I remember correctly, and my translating app is to be trusted, there was deep concern at the time of the book’s publication and its rising popularity, that it focused too much on the worldly life.** Thus, to ensure all was well from there to eternity, prayers were held for the author and the novel. Since we all get to hear about it today, and there’s even a statue of the author by the Uji bridge, it means it passed all censorship and tests. Yay! for authorship.
The Museum of The Tale of Genji
This is the 2nd time (there’ll be more) I show my ICOM card to museum staff and the response I get is: ‘Cash only!’ Not only it didn’t allow me free access, but it doesn’t double up as a credit card either! At some point, I did try to access my hotel room with it, too, but that was just the one ring talking.
ATM ticket purchased, I’m now equipped with an audioguide – yes, another tablet necklace, which tells me in short summaries, what each of the rooms is about. Otherwise, everything is in beautiful scripts I cannot decipher, and all I have to rely on is my wit, which these days is like Michelle of the Resistance.
Just when I was about to give up on the tablet, it came alive. I was quickly invited in by the member of staff at the entrance, and seconds later, one of the stories from The Tale of Genji, was shown as a short film with puppets. Thankfully, it was all translated, as, not having finished the book yet (thousands of pages), I wasn’t familiar with this particular story.
Alas, there is little for the ears, though enough to see with one’s eyes. The labels, yet again, can offer me little in terms of details. This is a common phenomenon for many museums and galleries across Japan – the further away from The Big 3, the harder it gets. You may find introduction panel texts translated in English, Chinese, and Korean (visitor stats most likely inform these choices), but none of the labels containing individual artwork/artist information. This wouldn’t necessarily be a problem, If you were allowed to use your phone to take snapshots of the labels, or ‘live’ translate them. ‘No photography’ also means ‘no phone camera usage’.
The museum is a nice educational school trip, as the numerous students ushered in proved. There was a display of samples of resins, scented woods, and other materials used for producing perfume and incense. A lot is made of the importance of scent in the novel, particularly since stealing glimpses of your beloved’s face were nigh impossible. And here’s where we go down the rabbit hole….
Story Time
This is the Heian period (11th c), we are talking about, dear Reader. Known, among other things, for its 12 layered dress. In fact, if there’s anything I’ve learned these days, you can never have enough layers. Or dresses. Women, grew separately and differently from the male members of their family, were mostly in hiding, not to be seen even by the male members of their family. How beautiful a woman was, only poets could tell.
You can imagine, how hard this would make flirting, dear Reader. Or shall I say, wooing. It’s like going to a Ball masque with a sleeping mask. And this is why we have the motif of ‘stolen glimpses’ in The Tale of Genji, which, inevitably leads to ‘love at first sight’ cliché . Here, it is called kaimami.
“A woman who has nothing to recommend her is as rare as one who is perfect in every way!”
So, folks would have to rely on word of mouth, matchmaking, a faithful retainer (!) or the neighbourhood auntie, to find out if there’s a beauty in the vicinity, and does she warrant a visit. Naturally, a letter would have to be sent in secrecy. A few lines of poetry scribbled on (actually, it would have to be the finest handwriting, or not a chance of a reply), and a prayer. Also, because we are where we are, the lines would talk about everything and nothing, the spring, the flowers, the birds…all about nothing.
Lines were exchanged, to grow the ardour and develop a connection, like pen pals (so vintage), or AI chat. Then, some moonless, starlit night, or a cloudy, fully lit one, whichever the case, the daring, dashing, determined lover would ‘break in’ as arranged by helpers. Under cover of darkness, an exchange of scents and fluids would take place. One hopes, a fair trade. In the morning, there’d be a chance for a moment of recognition, acceptance, or rejection. They didn’t serve coffee at that time, and the visitor would have to leave early enough to run an errand. Following chapters ensue…
*Not to be mistaken with the very popular, and one of the most important works of Chinese Literature: Journey to the West by Wu Cheng’en. One can, however, draw parallel lines between several recorded journeys around the world, all sometime in medias res, heading towards the sunset, whether to return home, find oneself, enlightenment, or an answer.
**It is not unheard of in history that literacy is quite a challenging skill for the fair-er sex to have, and it usually manages to both raise eyebrows and draw them together.